Project 2

Golf Ball Cannon

Project 2 Description:

The Golf ball was engineered to fly far distances through regular air.  The dimples surrounding the Golf ball are the key to distance and accuracy.  Golf balls are cheap and can be purchased in bulk from used golf ball dealers.  They make the perfect projectile.

The cannon is quite simple actually.  It utilizes basic combustion chamber principles similar to that of an old style black powder gun.  A fuse or electric igniter was inserted into the back end.  A small charge was placed into the barrel.  The charge should not exceed the barrels maximum handling ability.  The charge was be packed into a small cotton cheese cloth or gauss cloth for ease of insertion.  A ramrod makes this job easy.  A wad was inserted after the charge.  This helps create stable compression in the barrel and helps stop the projectile from melting.  We used 3 sheets of notebook paper or newspaper to make a wad.  Next we insert the golf ball, then one more wad to hold it in place.  We placed the cannon in a place far away from homes or buildings.  The projectile can travel very far, over 7 miles!  Make sure there is a hill or mountain behind the target to stop the golf ball.

There we have it, a golf ball cannon capable of blasting a hole in a brick wall, engine block or for defending the country.

Project 2 Parts List:

This project requires many steel metal parts.  Most of these parts can be purchased from most steel suppliers, look in the yellow pages for suppliers.

Videos and Pictures: (click text for video)  You will need Real Player to view videos --->Click to download!

Golfball Cannon Shooting small tv
Golfball Cannon Shooting side of two monitors
 

Assembly Instructions:

Above is a picture of the completed cannon.

We acquired 3pcs of angle iron.  Each one is 28" Long, each side is 3" long.

We drilled two 5/8" holes as seen.  They are 1" from the end and side... so 1" in and 1" from the edge.

We drilled two more holes 2" longer than the barrel from the other two holes.  We want the barrel to sit between them with 1" above and below the barrel.

We placed the other two angles on the flat floor and use a sharp crayon to trace the stationary holes, then travel 4-5" for recoil.

We cut out the rail holes using a drill and file or plasma cutter.
 

Now we weld the two angles together.  We used a mig welding torch.  Next we bolt the other angle under it to hold the angle at 90 degrees.

Here is a picture of a good weld bead.

Next we need to acquire two recoil compensator shocks, gas filled for heavy lift assist.

Cut the tips off, grind a small notch in the ends.  We used eyelet loops to complete them as pictured.

Here are some close up's to help complete it.  We see the arrangement of washers and the nut.

Now we will need to weld the last two retainer bolts to hold the gas shocks in place.  They are 1/4" coarse bolts.

Here is the bottom completed.

Now we acquire the legs.  These are square tubing that is 1/16" wall thickness.  Each is 12" long.

We mig welded them as shown.

Next we measured the width between each leg and cut some more square tubing with 45 degree angles to snug fit.

Next we mig welded them in place.

Now we will construct the tail support using a left over pcs of angle iron and small square tube.  Angle is 12" long.  Sq is 5" long.

Next we mig welded it in place very well.  It supports the cannon when it fires.

Next we need the cannon tube which is about 16" Long, a 3/4" tall slug the same diameter as the barrel and a sheet of steel 1/4" thick.

We hammered the slug into the barrel so it is 1/4" deeper than the top level and welded it in place and filled the hole with mig weld steel by pooling the weld bead nice and thick.

Next we drilled a small hole for the fuse.

We placed the barrel over the steel sheet and drew a cutout and plasma cut it out.

Next we find the center of the metal plate and drill a slightly larger hold for the fuse. 

Next we mig welded the plate to the cannon barrel.  It acts as an extra protective end plug.  Here we see the barrel next to the sliding rail.

Next we positioned the barrel on the sliding rail so the exit end is facing the shortest length as pictured.  We used scraps to hold in place.

We welded the barrel to the sliding rail.

We acid washed the entire thing with Hydrochloric acid.  We wore a respirator and rubber gloves to protect ourselves.

Once rust is removed or at least most of it... we will see a thin layer forming, that is normal.  Don't worry.

We let it dry in the sun before painting.

We primed it with a good 3M primer.

We primed the barrel with a good high temp primer.

Once primed we need to tape off the sliding rail section.

We painted truck bed liner on the cannon and rail.  Not on the bottom of the rail.

Next we painted the cannon support with bed liner spray.

Next we tape off the rail and paint the cannon silver or whatever color we like.

Next we assembled the bottom and we ready to go.